Southwest Australia Road Trip Stage 4 Eyre Peninsula

Picture yourself embarking on an unforgettable journey through one of Australia’s most captivating regions, the Eyre Peninsula. This adventure promises not just stunning landscapes but also an opportunity to immerse yourself in a lifestyle that celebrates nature and tranquility. Let’s dive into the details of this incredible road trip, where every bend in the road reveals another hidden gem.

Exploring the Eyre Peninsula: A Road Trip Overview

After the long stretch across the Nullarbor Plain, we finally set our sights on the Eyre Peninsula, ready to explore its breathtaking coastlines and charming towns. This section of our road trip through southwestern Australia is bound to be a highlight, featuring a mix of coastal beauty and local culture. The Eyre Peninsula, shaped like an inverted triangle with Port Lincoln at the tip, offers a delightful exploration of its two contrasting coastlines.

Here’s a quick glance at the logistics:

Day 12: Haslam to Locks Well Beach

Our journey began just before reaching Haslam, specifically in Ceduna, the official end of the Nullarbor Plain. Here, we faced a quick quarantine check, a routine for travelers. The long day had us arriving at around 6 PM, and despite the time difference between South and Western Australia, our bodies were ready for a break.

While we didn’t explore much of the initial Eyre Peninsula, we did attempt to visit a free camping site, only to turn back after encountering a rocky, bumpy road that tested our patience—and our van's suspension. However, fortune smiled upon us at the Haslam camping ground, where we found no envelopes to pay the $10 AUD donation fee. After waiting for hours, our moral compass prevailed, and we set off early the next morning, eager to continue our adventure.

The Eyre Peninsula greeted us with coastal vistas reminiscent of the Otago Peninsula in New Zealand. The beaches, while beautiful, weren’t necessarily for swimming, dotted with quaint fishing villages that felt frozen in time. This region attracts a small number of tourists, mostly backpackers and fishing enthusiasts, which adds to its peaceful charm.

Despite the clouds and intermittent rain, the temperature was a refreshing 22 degrees, a welcome relief from the oppressive heat of the Nullarbor. We decided to slow down and embrace the serenity the peninsula offers, exploring at a leisurely pace.

We started our day with breakfast in Streaky Bay, known for its remarkable claim to fame: a replica of one of the largest great white sharks ever caught. This behemoth weighed in at a whopping 1,500 pounds and measured over five meters long. The shark is displayed in a hidden corner of a Shell gas station, making for a quirky photo opportunity.

Continuing our journey, we passed through Port Kenny, which seemed to be stuck in the 1950s, featuring vintage buildings and a rustic charm that felt like a step back in time. A friendly cowboy hat-wearing local waved from a bar, embodying the welcoming spirit of the region.

Our next stop was Venus Bay, where the stunning cliffside lookouts captivated us. While we didn’t spot any dolphins, the views of the ocean were breathtaking. We ventured next towards the Talia Caves (Woolshed Cave and The Tub), although the road conditions deterred us from going further.

Before reaching Elliston, we detoured onto the Great Ocean Drive, a scenic loop offering spectacular views of water and cliffs. Along this route, we were surprised to find four moai statues, adding a touch of whimsy to our drive. After snapping some photos, we tuned into a local radio station broadcasting in Italian, a delightful reminder of the region's multicultural fabric.

In Elliston, we sought a place to eat and were humorously informed by a local at the visitor center that finding a decent restaurant would be a challenge. We settled for a casual meal at a nearby roadhouse, enjoying fish and chips typical of the region, known for its seafood.

As the day wore on, we discovered the stunning Locks Well Beach—a true hidden gem. Despite the drizzle and winds, the dramatic scenery took our breath away. A wooden boardwalk led us to a lookout perched on the cliffs, revealing two distinct stretches of coastline: one a secluded beach perfect for birds, and the other a long stretch of orange sand accessible via stairs. However, swimming was strongly discouraged due to the powerful waves.

Day 13: Locks Well Beach to Port Lincoln

Waking up to overcast skies didn’t dampen our enthusiasm for the day ahead. Our first stop was the Lake Hamilton Eating House, a restored service area from 1857 that once catered to weary travelers. The site exuded history and charm, a perfect start to our explorations.

A short detour brought us to the Cummings Monument, honoring Leo Cummings, an early settler who tragically drowned in a fishing accident. The views from the monument were stunning, making the visit worthwhile.

Our next destination, Coffin Bay, is famous for its oysters, renowned across the globe. If you’re interested in maritime experiences, this is the place to be! Consider taking a boat tour to explore oyster farms or embark on the scenic 8 km Oyster Walk, which showcases the beauty of the bay.

If you’re eager for more adventure, the Coffin Bay National Park (entry fee: $10 per vehicle) offers rugged beauty, although some areas require a 4x4. We opted not to visit, but the pictures looked promising!

Arriving in Port Lincoln, the largest city in the Eyre Peninsula, we checked into the Port Lincoln YHA. While we still hadn’t sampled oysters or crayfish, we were in for a treat as the hostel was serving their renowned seafood paella, a delightful fusion of flavors. Rob and Deb, the hospitable owners, ensured our stay was memorable.

• Check out the hostel’s website.
• Prices start from $27 per night per person.
• Location: 24-26 London St, Port Lincoln.

Day 14: Port Lincoln to Port Pirie

Port Lincoln is famed for its shark diving experiences, where adrenaline seekers can cage dive with great whites. Additionally, the city is considered Australia's seafood capital, boasting several interesting museums and lookout points, including the spectacular Winter Hill lookout.

For the adventurous, the Whalers Way offers a breathtaking 14 km route along private land, requiring a $30 entry fee at the Visitor Center. The drive features cliffs, stunning beaches, and the chance to see emus and kangaroos in their natural habitat.

On our way, we stumbled upon Mikkira Station, a place known for having wild koalas in the vicinity. The entrance fee is $15, but it’s a charming spot to spend the night for $25 if you’re camping.

As we ventured through the east side of the Eyre Peninsula, we found the coastline dotted with charming towns, each with its own quaint pier and colorful cottages. We decided to put some miles behind us, hoping to reach our destination with minimal expectations.

At Whyalla, we took a break for sandwiches and sunbathing when we stumbled upon a delightful surprise: a pair of dolphins swimming near the dock! This spontaneous encounter turned out to be one of the most thrilling moments of our trip, making the day unforgettable.

Arriving in Port Pirie late in the evening, we battled the heat that lingered even after sunset. Seeking refuge, we found a low-cost caravan park where we settled for the night, grateful for the air conditioning that allowed us to cool off from the sweltering temperatures.

Day 15: Port Pirie to Adelaide

The next morning, we hit the road a little groggy from the previous night’s heat. As we drove, we realized we were unknowingly traveling alongside a freight train—The Ghan—which travels from Adelaide to Darwin over four days, an iconic journey in Australia.

Though not the longest train journey in the country, that honor goes to the Indian Pacific from Sydney to Perth, spanning an impressive 4,352 km. Train travel in Australia is now a popular tourist attraction, offering a romantic yet expensive way to see the vast landscapes.

We had hoped to see the famous pink lakes, but our first encounter with Bumbunga Lake was underwhelming, lacking its signature rosy hue. However, the unique features and stories surrounding these lakes made the detour worthwhile.

Our journey continued with more attempts to find vibrant pink lakes, but ultimately led us to the bustling city of Adelaide, marking the end of this exciting segment of our road trip. With memories of stunning landscapes and unique encounters, we eagerly anticipated the adventures that lay ahead.

→ More information about the Eyre Peninsula

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