Lost on Dhangethi Island: A Travel Adventure Guide
Have you ever dreamt of escaping everything and heading to a deserted beach far away from the hustle and bustle of modern life? We certainly have. But little did we know that we would have the chance to turn this dream into reality when we stumbled upon a hidden gem: Dhangethi Island in the Maldives!
This tiny island is about six hours away by ferry from Malé, the capital of the Maldives. While we were excited (who wouldn’t be going to the Maldives?), we couldn’t shake off a sense of apprehension. The internet offered scant information about Dhangethi, which sparked a mix of curiosity and unease. On one hand, its lack of tourist hype suggested it might be an untouched paradise, but on the other, we worried: what if it turned out to be a letdown? What if the beaches were lackluster? Or worse, what if there were man-eating sharks lurking just beneath the surface?
Despite our fears, we decided to take the plunge, especially after finding a charming and affordable place to stay. And boy, are we glad we did!
Upon our arrival, we were warmly greeted by Mohammed, who offered us refreshing coconuts. Talk about a welcome! However, we quickly realized how heavy a coconut could be, especially while lugging our backpacks under the Maldivian sun. Mohammed then escorted us to our homestay, where we would spend the next six days, and we were instantly smitten with the cozy atmosphere.
But what about the beaches? Admittedly, when we first disembarked, we felt a bit deflated. The beach was certainly pretty, but it fell short of the postcard-worthy paradise we had envisioned; the water was teeming with seaweed, and we couldn’t help but wonder how many sharks were lurking below, waiting for their next meal.
Yet, we resolved to stay positive. Surely, there had to be stunning beaches around the corner! And we were right! The best beach on the island was a mere five-minute walk from our homestay, and it was nothing short of spectacular. Clear, warm water in a myriad of blue and green hues, powdery white sands, and coconut palms swaying overhead—this was paradise!
Our days were filled with sun-soaked adventures, swim sessions, and snorkeling excursions where we even spotted rays and a small shark! Our daily routine in the Maldives was quite hectic: waking up around 9 AM, indulging in a hearty breakfast of eggs, sausages, and bread, followed by beach time, swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing, lunch, afternoon siesta, internet browsing, strolling through the village, reading, and unwinding at our favorite nook while watching the sunset. Dinner followed, often accompanied by a movie, and then off to sleep. A hard life indeed, but hey, someone has to live it!
One day, we met some Bangladeshi workers from a nearby resort. They shared stories about their lives and experiences in Spain, India, and Bangladesh. The younger ones were cheerful, while the older one seemed rather despondent. After spending 15 years driving buses in the Middle East, he expressed his dissatisfaction with the Maldives, noting that it was just water and fish.
In all honesty, we fell in love with Dhangethi and have no regrets about visiting! It may not be the most exquisite island in the Maldives, but for us, it was perfect.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Staying on a Local Island in the Maldives
1. We Were the Only Tourists
Having a postcard-perfect beach all to ourselves was priceless! We did notice that around 5 PM, other tourists arrived, likely brought in by resorts offering day trips to experience local life. It was amusing to watch them disembark while local shops sprang to life, selling clothing, shells, maps, and souvenirs. But the beach remained ours until then!
2. Connection with Locals
Staying in resorts or more commercial islands like Maafushi can dilute genuine interactions with locals, often reducing encounters to sales pitches. In Dhangethi, however, we encountered friendly faces. Our connection with Mohammed, who spoke Italian with a lovely Veneto accent, was a highlight of our trip!
3. Authentic Life Experience
Without the trappings of a resort, we witnessed the everyday life of the island: children heading to school, fishermen at work, women gossiping during sunset, and men prayer at the mosque. The true luxury was being part of the island’s authentic rhythm!
4. Cost-Effective Travel
Traveling this way saves you a significant amount of money, especially if, like us, you have access to a kitchen!
Challenges of Staying on a Local Island
1. No Bikini Zone
This wasn't an issue for me, but if you love sunbathing in your bikini, you'll have to rethink your swimwear. While resorts have no such restrictions, local islands require women to wear shorts and t-shirts when swimming.
2. Strong Currents
We aren’t sure if it was the season, the moon, or the wind, but at certain points, the currents were quite strong, almost like being in a river! While not dangerous, it often swept us directly to the neighboring beach, which felt like a swimming pool.
3. Mixed Beach Conditions
While there are several idyllic corners on the island, some areas are less appealing. The larger beaches can be neglected and littered with trash, a persistent issue in the Maldives that is hard to shake off.
Practical Information for Your Trip
How to Get There?
From the Villingili port in Malé, take a local ferry to Mahibadhoo, which takes about four hours. From there, catch another ferry to Dhangethi, which takes an additional hour and a half. The combined ticket costs around 53 rufiya.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at the Dhangethi Holiday House. (Note that the property has changed management, so conditions may vary now.)
If you need help finding a place to stay in paradise, check out our upcoming post for updated deals on affordable accommodations in the Maldives.
Where to Eat?
There are a few small restaurants on the main beach where you can enjoy snacks based on fish or sausages for just 1 to 3 rufiya (about €0.05), or fried noodles or fried rice for about 30 to 40 rufiya. If you have a kitchen, like we did, you can feast on pasta and Spanish omelette!
For more tips on how to save money in the Maldives, click here.
If you need assistance finding a place to stay in paradise, check out our post for some of the best affordable accommodations in the Maldives.
For a deeper dive into the beauty of Dhangethi, check out this informative video:
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