Exploring the Mysteries of Hampi

Hampi, a hidden gem in India, is a tapestry of history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes. If you're looking for an adventure that combines exploration with rich experiences, let this journey through Hampi inspire you to embark on your own adventure.
The Early Arrival
“Hampi, Hampiiii! Last stooooop!” The bus driver’s voice jolted me awake. I glanced at Rober, who was still deep in his REM sleep, mouth agape. A quick look at my watch revealed it was only 5:30 AM. “This can’t be right! We were supposed to arrive by 7:30!”
“Lety: Rober, wake up!”
“Bus Driver: Hampi! Last stop!”
“Lety: Yes, we’re getting off! Rober, we’re here!”
“Rober: Huh? What? Where? It’s too early!”
“Lety: I know, but we’re here!”
“Bus Driver: Hampi!”
“Lety and Rober: Seriously?”
“C.B., our savior: Well, they drive like maniacs. We made it here two hours early because they stop to refuel their beer bellies!”
“Rober: And where exactly are we?”
“Bus Driver: Hampi!”
“Rober: Yes, but where? We’re in the middle of nowhere with just three tuk-tuks and a chai vendor!”
“Bus Driver: Hampi!”
“Lety: Okay, bye!
“C.B.: Where do you want to go?”
“Rober: To Hampi Bazaar!”
“C.B.: Why? There’s nothing left there; UNESCO demolished it all. The accommodations are across the river, where we are now. Want to join me to find a place to wait for the restaurants and guesthouses to open?”
“Rober and Lety: Sure!”
Dear reader, in India, early mornings don’t mean bustling activity. At 5:30 AM, nothing is open. Hence, we found ourselves slipping into the panoramic terrace of the “Laughing Buddha,” watching the sun rise over Hampi.
Searching for a Place to Stay
As the streets of Hampi began to awaken, we set off with our backpacks in search of accommodation. We worried it would be a challenge since the city was hosting its most significant festival that day. However, within five minutes, we found a decent, albeit basic, place to stay. Fortune was on our side!
With hours to kill before checking in, we decided to grab breakfast. The day started beautifully with a couple of light fried eggs!
Adventure Awaits
But let’s not linger too long; we didn’t come all this way to lounge around! We aimed to rent a scooter to explore the famous ruins.
Surprise! Due to the festival, we couldn’t visit the ruins on a scooter or even a bicycle!
“Lety: Are you kidding me?”
“Rober: That’s what I said. We’ll have to walk!”
“Lety: You’ve got to be kidding!”
“Rober: The streets are blocked, so we have to walk to the temples.”
“Lety: Seriously?”
“Rober: I know it’s not ideal, especially with the heat, but it’s our only option.”
“Lety: Okay, I’ll stop complaining. Unbelievable!”
The Ruins Await
Crossing the river that separates Virupapur Gaddy (where most accommodations are) from Hampi Bazaar, we began our exploration at the Virupaksha Temple. Here, we met an elephant, the symbol of Hampi, encountered hundreds of monkeys, and got our first taste of the city’s vibrant atmosphere. It was truly a fascinating place.
“Lety: Yes, fascinating indeed. But how do we get to the Royal Complex?”
“Rober: We walk.”
“Lety: Are you serious?”
And so began our odyssey through Hampi’s steep paths. (Okay, it was just one steep path, but it was long!) We visited Hemakuta Hill and, voilà...
The Miracle of Hampi
Thanks to the festival, free buses shuttled around the ruins. Well, not exactly the ruins, but close enough! We asked around, seeking help to find the “Queen’s Baths,” and settled into our comfy bus seats. To our shock, we ended up in a desolate area.
“Lety: Seriously?!”
“Rober: Let’s go back and actually get them to stop this time!”
>We explained our predicament to another driver and a policeman, insisting we wanted to reach the “Queen’s Baths.” “No problem, no problem!” they assured us.
We sat back down, only to find ourselves back where we started. No sign of the Queen’s Baths. Defeated, we decided to surrender to hunger and exhaustion. It was nearly 3 PM, the temperature soared above 30°C, and we were drenched in sweat. We’d try again tomorrow.
Determined Explorers
Today, we left our guesthouse with a singular mission: to endure the scorching sun to see the temples. If we could catch a bus, great; if not, we’d hop on a sacred cow, sneak onto a tuk-tuk’s roof, or walk!
Lucky for us, we didn’t have to resort to any of those extremes. The bus stopped right in front of the Queen’s Baths after Rober leapt from his seat, shouting “Stop!” when he spotted the ruins. The entire bus of locals joined in his excitement!
Finally, we reached the Queen’s Baths, which had been such a hassle to visit, and found them incredibly underwhelming. From there, we moved on to explore the Royal Center, which turned out to be the highlight of our day.
Second Part of Our Journey
Back on the free bus, we aimed for the desolate area we had visited the day before, hoping to find a tuk-tuk that could take us closer to Vittala Temple. As luck would have it, we spotted one parked nearby and hopped off the bus. Although we were skeptical, especially during the festival, the driver quoted us a fair price and drove us right to the temple entrance.
Once there, we faced two choices: catch an electric cart to the temple entrance or trek about a kilometer. We were exhausted after all the walking, but our frugal instincts kicked in, and we opted to walk. After what felt like a long journey, we finally spotted the magnificent Vittala Temple!
After exploring, we had one thing left to do: return! To our surprise, the path back to Hampi Bazaar revealed the most stunning scenery. While the complex was impressive, it’s the unique environment of Hampi—filled with rounded boulders along the river, stacked precariously—that truly captivates the soul.
Mythological Moments
Hampi is rich in legends, and one of our favorites tells of a Sri Lankan king who sought the help of the god Hanuman, envious of India’s mountains. Hanuman journeyed to the Himalayas, gathering rocks to fulfill the king’s wish for a more mountainous landscape. However, the weight of the rocks became too much to bear, and he dropped half of his load in southern India. This area became Hampi! Standing amidst the surreal landscape, it’s easy to believe such tales!
Whether myth or reality, one thing is certain: Hampi’s beauty is awe-inspiring. If you’re fortunate enough to visit, rent a scooter and get lost in the stunning surroundings—you won’t regret it!
Useful Information
How to Get There
We arrived by bus from Gokarna, first taking a local bus to Ankola (23 INR). From there, we boarded a tourist bus for 1000 INR, departing at 11 PM and arriving at 5:30 AM. Although we landed in a remote area, it’s conveniently close to Virupapur Gaddy, easily reachable on foot.
Where to Stay
The Hampi Bazaar area has been demolished, as UNESCO invested in preserving the site away from tourist congestion. However, a few guesthouses and restaurants remain. The majority of accommodations are found on the main street of Virupapur Gaddy (the only street, really!). We stayed at the French Travel guesthouse, where a double room without a bathroom cost us 300 INR. It was quite basic but sufficient! Rumor has it that in five years, this area will also be redeveloped with luxury accommodations.
Getting Around
- How to reach Hampi Bazaar: From the Virupapur Gaddy dock, you can take a boat for 10 INR across the river to Hampi Bazaar. Other crossings are available further along for motorcycles. A bridge was constructed but collapsed before its inauguration—just one of life’s mysteries!
- Visiting the Ruins: The best way to explore is by renting a scooter for about 300 INR/day or a bicycle for around 80 INR/day. Unfortunately, during the festival, we were unable to rent anything and had to walk, which turned out to be a bit tedious. It’s recommended to walk the route between Hampi Bazaar and Vittala Temple (about 30-45 minutes) as it is beautiful. If you want to take a motorcycle, you’ll have to take a longer detour.
Entry Fees
All temples are free except for Vittala (250 INR) and the Zenana compound (250 INR). If you visit both on the same day, you can use one ticket for both, thus only paying 250 INR instead of 500 INR.
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