Petra backdoor: alternative route to the monastery

Planning a trip to Petra can be overwhelming, especially when you hear about the daunting 800 steps to reach the Monastery. But there’s no need to fret! There’s an enticing alternative route known as the Backdoor of Petra, which not only spares you from the fatigue of climbing but also offers breathtaking landscapes and viewpoints along the way.
In this article, we’ll share our experience hiking the Backdoor of Petra, how to navigate this route to reach the Monastery, and essential tips to ensure you have an unforgettable journey.
Understanding the Backdoor of Petra
While the term "Backdoor" might imply secrecy, this route was actually one of the main access paths to the ancient Nabatean city of Petra. The full trek spans approximately 7 kilometers, connecting Little Petra to the magnificent Monastery, also known as “Ad Deir,” which stands as the highest point in the archaeological site.
The best part? This route allows you to skip the grueling 800 to 900 steps typically associated with the traditional ascent. If you're feeling adventurous, you can even take advantage of the Jeep services offered by the Tourism Department, transforming what seemed like a daunting challenge into a pleasant stroll through nature. But let’s delve deeper into this route.
What is the Monastery of Petra?
When we think of Petra, the iconic image of the Treasury often springs to mind. However, this archaeological site is a vast city carved into the mountains of Jordan, featuring numerous other remarkable structures. The Monastery is undoubtedly one of the most impressive, not just for its architectural detail, but for its sheer size and outstanding preservation.
To begin your adventure, head to the Petra Visitor Center to purchase your tickets or retrieve them if you possess the Jordan Pass. This area also has free official parking, along with additional spots nearby (we parked just past the bridge, here).
Your next stop is Little Petra. The most convenient option is to take the free shuttle provided by the archaeological site, which departs from the back of the main building (as indicated on the map). While we can't confirm exact schedules, we learned that shuttles typically run about three times an hour. Our bus left with just four passengers, offering a scenic drive that lasts around 10 minutes to reach Little Petra.
Little Petra itself features a small burial site carved into rock, which would be a significant attraction on its own, were it not overshadowed by its larger counterpart. This area also includes a narrow canyon (known as Siq Al-Bared) leading to a natural terrace with stunning views—this section is entirely free to explore.
Accessing the Backdoor Trail
Once you've soaked in the sights at Little Petra, head back to the entrance office where your Petra ticket will be checked, and pay an additional 5 JD per person for a shared Jeep ride (complete with an official ticket). The Jeep station is about a 5-minute walk from the office along a dirt road, so you won’t get lost.
These open-air Jeeps can accommodate around 15 passengers and typically wait until they fill up before departing. Not only does this save you nearly 5 kilometers of somewhat uneventful hiking, but in about 20 minutes, you’ll arrive at the trailhead for the Backdoor to the Monastery, where your real adventure begins.
If you prefer, you can negotiate a taxi to take you from the Visitor Center to Little Petra. Taxis are readily available, and you might start by being quoted 20 JD. However, with a bit of negotiation, you could settle on around 10 JD.
Exploring the Backdoor Trail
This trail is neither overly difficult nor excessively long, covering around 2.5 kilometers on a well-marked and well-maintained path, which includes some constructed staircases.
The initial section is the most strenuous, featuring numerous stairs and ramps. However, with a few short breaks, it’s manageable for most. After this climb, you’ll reach the highest point, where you’ll be treated to breathtaking views (look for the Jordanian flag). You’ll also encounter a stunning gorge, though it poses no danger unless you’re actively seeking thrill.
From here, the trail descends briefly before transitioning to a path of sand and stones that leads gently upwards. As you approach, the silhouette of one of the Monastery’s pinnacles will come into view, and after a few more steps, you’ll have finally arrived.
Overall, expect to spend around 45 minutes to an hour on this trail. Importantly, the path is in excellent condition and is generally easy to navigate (the initial stair portion may vary in difficulty based on your fitness level). We can confidently say that this trail offers an incredibly picturesque experience.
Now it’s time to descend… The infamous stairs that many dread (rumored to number 800) will greet you. Although we didn't count, they certainly felt fewer than that—perhaps they just seem endless when you’re climbing! Expect to see red-faced visitors, sweaty brows, and plenty of souvenir stalls along the way. Take your time to avoid missteps, and in about 40 minutes, you’ll reach the Basin area (1.7 km).
From there, you can continue exploring the archaeological site towards the Treasury (another 1.7 km) and then pass through the Siq to reach the official entrance back at the Visitor Center (an additional 2.2 km).
Is the Backdoor Worth It? Our Experience
Absolutely! Not only does it allow you to bypass the grueling steps that deter many from visiting the Monastery, but you’ll also uncover other fascinating sites like Little Petra and witness stunning landscapes along the way.
We hopped on the free shuttle around 1:00 PM, and by 2:00 PM we were on the trail. By 3:00 PM, we reached the Monastery and spent a little over an hour taking photos (and unfortunately assisting in a rescue for someone who fell at one of the viewpoints). By 4:30 PM, we were en route to the Treasury, arriving there around 5:00 PM. By 5:51 PM, we were back at our car—exhausted yet exhilarated.
Map of the Backdoor of Petra
Below is a map highlighting all the key reference points to guide you through the Backdoor route to the Monastery:
This alternative route to the Monastery in Petra is highly recommended for not only avoiding the strenuous climb of 800 steps but also for enjoying a delightful hike. Have you experienced the Backdoor of Petra? What was your adventure like?
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