Things to See and Do in Soportújar, the Witch Village of Alpujarra

Close your eyes for a moment and imagine a summer night in the heart of the Alpujarra Granadina. The full moon casts a silvery glow over the rugged mountains, creating an atmosphere of mystery and enchantment. As the cool breeze whispers through the trees, you might just catch a glimpse of a silhouette soaring across the starry sky—could it be a group of witches on their way to a midnight gathering? While this might sound like a scene from a fairy tale, such is the charm of Soportújar, a village steeped in folklore and legend. If you’re planning a trip to the Alpujarra Granadina, this magical place is a must-visit. Let’s explore what to see and do in Soportújar, the enchanting village of witches.
The Legend of Soportújar
Soportújar is not just any ordinary village; it is a tapestry woven with threads of history, magic, and local lore. This picturesque hamlet appears to cling to the mountainside, offering breathtaking views that enchant every visitor. According to legend, Soportújar was chosen by witches, sorcerers, and necromancers for their clandestine meetings.
The roots of this legend can be traced back to the period following the Reconquista, when the village was repopulated by Galician migrants who brought with them tales of meigas (Galician witches) and ancient pagan traditions. As locals began referring to these newcomers as “brujos” (witches), Soportújar transformed into a hub of mystical intrigue, where you can find representations of witches in parks, signs, and even on menus in local eateries.
Each August, the village comes alive with the Feria del Embrujo, a festival that celebrates its enchanting folklore. This event is an explosion of color, culture, and, of course, magic, attracting visitors eager to immerse themselves in the village's mystical atmosphere.
What to See in Soportújar
Your journey through Soportújar promises to be filled with intriguing sights and experiences. Here are some highlights you won’t want to miss:
1. The Baba Yaga Witch
As you enter Soportújar, you will be greeted by the imposing head of the Baba Yaga Witch, a Nordic witch whose piercing blue eyes seem to follow your every move. This striking sculpture is located in a wooded area near a serene waterfall, setting the tone for your mystical adventure.
2. The Aquelarre Viewpoint
Your next stop should be the Mirador del Aquelarre. This viewpoint not only offers a stunning panoramic view of the village and its surroundings but is also adorned with symbols of witchcraft, including a classic pointed hat, a black cat, a magical cauldron, and a spellbook. Legend has it that this spot served as a meeting place for witches during their rituals. Just remember, if you drive, there’s parking available nearby, but prepare for some steep climbs!
3. The Witch's Eye Cave
Another must-see is the Cueva Ojo de Bruja, located at the entrance of the village. This cave is steeped in its own eerie secrets, and just beside it lies a charming stone bridge where another witch statue awaits your visit.
4. Plaza de Abastos
Once inside the village, head to the Plaza de Abastos, the vibrant heart of local life. Here, you’ll find the Town Hall, the Church of Santa María La Mayor, and the enchanting Fountain of the Witches at the Mirador del Embrujo, where two witches are depicted brewing a magical potion in a massive cauldron. It’s undoubtedly one of the most captivating spots in Soportújar.
5. Embrujo Project
Every corner of the village is adorned with elements that enhance its mystical atmosphere, thanks to the Embrujo Project. Look out for the dreamcatcher spider in a narrow alley, the Fertility Fountain said to possess aphrodisiac powers (according to local lore), and the Chorro Fountain near the Witch Baba Yaga’s house, complete with an intriguing riddle and a “house with giant chicken legs” that seems to have leapt straight from a Studio Ghibli film.
6. The Narrowest Street in Spain
Soportújar is home to the narrowest street in Spain, known as Calle Zanjilla. Test your courage and squeeze through this tiny passage to see if the rumors hold true!
7. The Museum of Embrujo
Directly across from the Baba Yaga statue lies the Museum of Embrujo, where you can explore a collection of peculiar artifacts related to witchcraft and esoteric traditions, perfect for those looking to delve deeper into the village's magical history.
8. O Sel Ling
If you wish to escape the enchanting chaos and seek inner peace, a trail leads from Soportújar to O Sel Ling, a serene Buddhist meditation center nestled in the Alta Alpujarra. The hike takes around three hours, or you can drive, though be prepared for some bumpy roads!
Where to Eat in Soportújar
After a day of exploring, treat yourself to a meal at one of the village's delightful bars and restaurants. The Taberna Romero is a great choice, where a quirky figure greets you at the entrance. Don’t forget to take home a sugar packet featuring a witch as a fun souvenir!
Where to Stay in Soportújar
If you decide to linger a little longer, consider staying at one of these charming accommodations: Cortijo Solera or Los Llanos by Dreams Alpujarra. Just be prepared for the sounds of spells being cast and maybe even a few witchy giggles!
Soportújar was a delightful surprise on our road trip through the Alpujarra Granadina. A magical village that has skillfully turned an initially derogatory nickname into a celebrated identity, earning its rightful place among the most beautiful villages in the Alpujarra.
If you’re eager to visit this charming corner of the world, we hope this guide has sparked your imagination and curiosity. Are there any other things to see and do in Soportújar that you’d recommend?
For a deeper dive into the wonders of Soportújar, check out this informative video:
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