Backpacking Guide to Sri Lanka

If you have been waiting for our ultimate backpacker’s guide to Sri Lanka, today is your lucky day! This island, often referred to as the "teardrop of India," has much to offer, and we spent an incredible 24 days on our first visit, returning for another three weeks to delve even deeper. This guide is a treasure trove of insights, practical tips, and personal anecdotes to help you navigate this beautiful country.

While Sri Lanka is geographically close to India, the experience is markedly different. We found Sri Lanka to be more organized, easier to navigate, and cleaner, though admittedly, it lacked some of the vibrancy of its neighbor. It’s essential to recognize that while Sri Lanka may not be branded as a typical backpacker’s paradise, it provides ample opportunities for independent exploration. Despite a rocky start, our journey turned out to be exhilarating, and the presence of our friend Jordi certainly added to the fun!

In retrospect, Sri Lanka may not top our list of favorite destinations in Asia, but it holds a special place in our hearts. The island offers a mix of beaches, mountains, culture, and spirituality. However, if you're a foodie, you might find the local cuisine challenging to love; Sri Lanka is a well-rounded destination with something for everyone.

Here’s our comprehensive travel guide to Sri Lanka for backpackers, covering everything from visas and currency to transportation and cuisine! Let’s dive in!

Visa Requirements

To enter Sri Lanka, you will need to obtain an electronic visa (ETA). The process is straightforward: visit the official Sri Lankan visa website, follow the instructions, make the payment, and receive a confirmation email. We recommend printing this email just in case. The visa costs $30 and is valid for 30 days. Alternatively, you can opt for a visa on arrival, which costs an additional $5.

Currency and Money Matters

The official currency of Sri Lanka is the Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR). It's wise to check the current exchange rate before you travel. Here’s a tip: avoid exchanging currency at your local bank before your trip, as their rates can be less favorable. Instead, consider using a travel-specific card from a neobank, which offers excellent conditions for currency exchanges.

• We recommend the Revolut card, which is highly reliable and offers a welcome bonus for new users.
• Another great option is the N26 card. Both cards have a free version and can save you a significant amount on transaction fees.
• We suggest carrying both, along with your standard bank card, as a backup.

When to Travel

Sri Lanka experiences two distinct monsoon seasons, categorized into rainy and dry periods. The best time to visit is between October and March, when the northeast monsoon affects the northern region. Conversely, during our summer, the southern area faces the monsoon, while the eastern coast enjoys dry weather.

Health and Vaccinations

While there is a slight risk of malaria, the last reported cases were in 2012, so you can feel relatively secure. However, there is a higher risk of dengue fever. Unfortunately, no vaccines are available for either disease, so it’s crucial to take preventive measures: use a good mosquito repellent, sleep with a mosquito net, avoid peak mosquito activity times (dawn and dusk), and wear appropriate clothing.

We recommend the following vaccinations for travel to Sri Lanka:

• Hepatitis A and B
• Typhoid fever
• Polio and Tetanus
• Rabies (if you haven’t already received it)

For more guidelines, refer to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs recommendations for Sri Lanka.

Budgeting for Your Trip

Sri Lanka is not among the cheapest destinations in Asia—especially when compared to Thailand or its neighbor India—but it still maintains a low cost of living, making it affordable for travelers.

Reference Prices

Here are some general prices to give you an idea:

• Food: Local meals can start from 100 LKR (around €0.60). Dining in touristy restaurants will cost more, with noodle dishes priced between 350-450 LKR (€2-2.5). Expect to pay around €3-4 for meat or fish dishes.
• Transport: Bus fares average around 50 LKR per hour. For instance, a two-hour journey would cost approximately 100 LKR. Train travel is slightly more expensive; tuk-tuks within cities cost at least 150 LKR but can go up to 250 LKR depending on the distance.
• Accommodation: While some lodgings can be pricey, many offer good quality. Prices for a decent room typically start around 2000 LKR, often including breakfast.

Electrical Outlets

Sri Lanka utilizes type D and G electrical outlets, which differ from those in many other countries. Be sure to purchase a suitable adapter. You can buy a universal adapter or find a specific one upon arrival.

Crafting Your Itinerary

Our first independent trip to Sri Lanka lasted 24 days, covering an extensive list of destinations:

• Colombo
• Trincomalee
• Anuradhapura
• Dambulla
• Sigiriya
• Polonnaruwa
• Haputale
• Tissamaharama
• Tangalle
• Weligama
• Unawatuna
• Galle

On our second trip, we also visited:

• Kalpitiya
• Ella
• Hikkaduwa
• Mount Lavinia

Getting Around Sri Lanka

Despite Sri Lanka's small size, the time spent traveling between locations can add up. The primary modes of transport include trains, buses, tuk-tuks, and renting your own vehicle.

For more detailed information, check out our transport guide for Sri Lanka.

Must-Try Foods

When it comes to Sri Lankan cuisine, we didn't fall in love at first bite—or the second, to be honest. We found the food to be somewhat repetitive, although there were standout moments, like a memorable meal at the Nilaveli Crystal Blue Hotel.

The national dish is curry rice, typically served with rice, pappadam (crispy pancakes), and various curries like dhal (lentils), vegetables, and chicken (or fish on the coast). Eating curry rice daily can become monotonous, especially with limited alternatives in budget dining: Fried rice, fried noodles, and kottu are about it.

We encountered the famed coconut roti but found it to be just an ordinary roti with a hint of coconut. On the southern coast, there’s greater variety, and we indulged in burgers and fresh seafood.

One critical piece of advice: the food can be extremely spicy. Always request “not spicy” to avoid culinary surprises!

The Best and the Worst

This section is one of our favorites, where we share personal anecdotes and reflections about our journey—what we loved and what we found challenging.

Highlights

• The people: warm, cheerful, and friendly. While exceptions exist, most of the locals we encountered were wonderful.
• Climbing both Sigiriya and Pidurangala on the same day—exhausting but the views were worth every step!
• Spending time in the hill country, basing ourselves in Haputale, surrounded by stunning nature, cool weather, and tea fields.
• Traveling with Jordi made our experiences even more enjoyable.
• Memorable nights dancing under the full moon to Enrique Iglesias and Pitbull at a celebration organized by Amila and the treehouse crew.
• Staying in a treehouse—a dream come true!
• Stumbling upon the tallest waterfall in Sri Lanka and taking a refreshing dip.
• Seeing a leopard up close during a safari in Yala National Park—an adrenaline-pumping experience!
• Witnessing a breathtaking sunrise on Letty's birthday, one of the most beautiful sights we’ve ever seen.
• Beach hopping in the Unawatuna area, undoubtedly the prettiest part of the south.
• Finding a giant burger after days of noodles, rice, and curry.
• Renting a motorcycle and exploring Trincomalee.
• Relaxing in natural pools—a highlight of our trip.
• Stargazing in hammocks while fireflies twinkled around us.

Challenges

• The food didn't win us over: repetitive and spicy.
• The entrance fees for attractions were often exorbitant, adding up quickly and sometimes feeling unjustified.
• Encountering frogs in our bathroom in Haputale and even a snake—though now it’s a funny story!
• Taking the Kandy-Haputale bus ride standing or sitting in the aisle, missing out on the beautiful views.
• Bad weather in Nilaveli meant we couldn't visit Pigeon Island.
• Sandflies left us itching for days after a visit to the beach.
• The chaos at the blowhole entrance was overwhelming.
• Missing out on turtle watching due to steep fees.
• Bus drivers that drove like maniacs.
• Saying goodbye to Jordi after so many adventures was tough.

Additional Resources

We have written several articles that provide more detailed insights about Sri Lanka:

• 6 restaurants where to eat in Ella (good and cheap)
• Tips for traveling to Sri Lanka independently
• Best travel insurance for Sri Lanka
• Best time to travel to Sri Lanka
• 10 traditional dishes to try in Sri Lanka
• Complete guide for backpackers in Sri Lanka

We hope this backpacker’s guide to Sri Lanka proves to be useful. If you have any questions or curiosities, feel free to reach out, and we’ll be more than happy to assist!

Avoid the hassles and save on your trip:

Best time to visit Sri Lanka for an unforgettable experience