Returning to Our Land of Neverland

Imagine a place where time stands still, where every sunset feels like a brushstroke from a master painter, and where the crystal-clear waters invite you to swim forever. This is the enchanting Koh Rong, a hidden gem off the coast of Cambodia that captivates the hearts of those who visit. Let me take you on a journey to this magical island, one that has transformed yet remains deeply beloved.

Returning to Our Enchanted Island

Just a few years ago, during our extensive travels in Asia, we stumbled upon Koh Rong thanks to the glowing tales shared by Marta and Gerard, a couple we met in Mandalay. Their passionate descriptions ignited a spark in us, compelling us to experience the island for ourselves. Upon our arrival, we were instantly smitten; it was truly love at first sight. Koh Rong became our personal "Neverland," a sanctuary where adventure and relaxation meld seamlessly.

Now, nearly three years later, we return, this time accompanied by Lety’s parents, eager to unveil our cherished hideaway to our loved ones. However, we’ve come to realize that our secret paradise is no longer as secluded as it once was. The island has seen significant changes in this short span, and while some transformations were anticipated, they still evoke a sense of nostalgia.

How We First Arrived: A Journey to Remember

Our initial voyage to Koh Rong was nothing short of an adventure. We boarded a slow boat that creaked ominously with every wave, a vessel that tested our seasickness threshold. Back then, there was only one trip daily, and it often ran half-empty. Fast forward to today, and the options are abundant: from leisurely boats to speedy ferries and even private catamarans. The frequency of departures has increased, making it a bustling hub for travelers. However, this surge in popularity comes with its pitfalls; the boats are now often packed to the brim!

• Slow Boat: A nostalgic choice for those who enjoy the journey as much as the destination.
• Fast Ferry: Perfect for those eager to reach the island quickly.
• Private Catamaran: Ideal for a luxurious experience with friends or family.

Is Tourism Changing the Island's Essence?

The delicate balance between preserving Koh Rong's charm and catering to tourism is a constant dilemma. While it's thrilling to share our beloved island with others, there’s a bittersweet feeling in watching it transform into a hub for mass tourism, reminiscent of Sihanoukville's frenetic atmosphere.

Despite the influx of visitors, the island's primary allure remains intact. The beaches we adore are still there, with the main beach bustling with accommodations and eateries, and quieter spots where you can escape the crowd and feel like a castaway. On our recent visit, we opted for a bungalow on a less crowded beach just beyond the main area, a serene retreat that felt like our private oasis.

The Timeless Beauty of Koh Rong

The waters of Koh Rong continue to mesmerize, shimmering like a pristine swimming pool under the sun. Whether you choose to lounge on the beach or dive into the refreshing sea, the experience is revitalizing. Days are spent indulging in simple pleasures: sunbathing, strolling along the shore (watch out for the wandering cattle!), and immersing ourselves in the warm waves.

Nights, when the stars twinkle above, offer a chance to witness the phosphorescent plankton glowing in the dark waters. Although our encounter with this natural wonder was less than picturesque during the day, the magic of Koh Rong's sunsets, unfurling in vibrant colors, remains as breathtaking as we remembered.

A Bittersweet Reflection

As we reflect on our journey, we grapple with mixed feelings. Our expectation that Koh Rong would remain unchanged led to disappointment upon seeing the developments. This alteration is one of the reasons we hesitate to return to Myanmar, as we long for the untouched beauty of the places we cherish. However, if this had been our first trip to Koh Rong, we would have undoubtedly been enamored, as it is still an authentic paradise.

Our reunion with Koh Rong rekindled the flames of our first love. Yes, the island has shown signs of change during our absence, but its beauty and allure continue to shine brightly. It remains a breathtaking destination, one that invites us back time and again, despite the bittersweet realization that nothing lasts forever.

Useful Information for Travelers

• Where to Stay: We chose to stay at the Pura Vita Resort, a lovely option that provides comfort amidst nature. More budget-friendly accommodations can be found on the main beach.
• Getting There: Ferry tickets cost around $15 for a round trip if purchased at the Dive Center. Be cautious when buying tickets from agencies or hotels, as prices can be inflated.
• Activities to Enjoy: Don't forget to indulge in various activities, such as:
• Snorkeling in the vibrant coral reefs.
• Exploring hidden beaches.
• Dining on fresh seafood at local restaurants.

As you plan your adventure to this beautiful island, remember to embrace both the changes and the timeless wonders Koh Rong has to offer. It’s a place that promises both nostalgia and new memories waiting to be made.

For a glimpse of Koh Rong's enchanting beauty, check out this video that showcases the island's allure:

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