Draa Valley Tour: Ait Ben Haddou to Mhamid Journey

As the sun begins to set over the vast desert landscapes of Morocco, a sense of adventure fills the air. Each corner of this journey holds a story waiting to be discovered, from the striking kasbahs to the serene oases. Join us as we embark on a captivating road trip through the enchanting Valley of Draa, where every moment is a treasure of experiences.
Exploring the Valley of Draa by Car
Our journey commenced in Ait Ben Haddou, the most iconic ksar in Morocco, where ancient earthen structures whisper tales of the past. As we wandered through its winding streets, we lost track of time, mesmerized by the beauty around us. After soaking in the atmosphere for an hour and a half, we loaded our backpacks into the car, ready to continue our trip through the Valley of Draa, heading towards Mhamid.
Discovering Ouarzazate
Just a short drive away lies Ouarzazate, a city that has become synonymous with the film industry, often referred to as “The Hollywood of Africa.” This strategic location has served as a crossroads for trade caravans and tourists alike. However, it is the film studios that truly steal the spotlight.
Among the most notable attractions are the Atlas Studios and the newer CLA Studios. These studios have been the backdrop for legendary films such as Gladiator and The Mummy. Although the cost of entry—approximately 50 dirhams—along with an additional 80 dirhams for a guide, might seem steep, the experience is worth it, especially for families.
Another must-see is the Kasbah Taourirt, one of the best-preserved kasbahs in Morocco, once home to the influential El Glaoui family. The structure's imposing exterior is matched by a labyrinth of staircases and rooms inside, revealing a glimpse into the past. Entry costs around 20 dirhams, and while the interior may not be extravagantly decorated, its historical significance makes it a worthwhile stop.
Visiting the Oasis of Fint
On our way to Ouarzazate, an unexpected encounter led us to the enchanting Oasis of Fint. Located about 15 kilometers from the city, the drive takes approximately 30 minutes. While the initial stretch is manageable, the last two kilometers require a careful approach, but even a standard car can navigate this terrain.
This picturesque oasis, nestled among volcanic mountains, showcases a vibrant community where locals go about their daily lives. If the river is flowing, don’t be surprised to find children playing, women washing clothes, and even burros quenching their thirst. Although some may suggest parking before reaching the village, venturing further is possible.
Once there, you can enjoy breathtaking views from the nearby hills or simply stroll through the village. While some visitors reported encountering persistent locals offering tours, our experience was relatively relaxed. If time allows, visiting the oasis can be a delightful diversion, but it’s not essential if you’re short on time.
Winding Through the Valley of Draa
Back on the road, we had two options: head northeast towards the Rose Valley or continue on the N9 towards the Sahara Desert via the Valley of Draa. We chose the latter, navigating the winding roads of Tizi’n-Tinififft, which offers spectacular panoramic views.
As we descended towards Zagora, we passed several lesser-known kasbahs, including those in Agdz and the impressive Kasbah Tamenougalt. Each site adds a unique flavor to the journey, with the palm trees lining the road providing a lush contrast to the arid landscape.
Arriving in Zagora
Zagora marks the starting point for camel caravans heading to Timbuktu, a historic route that once took 52 days to traverse. A signpost stands as a testament to this ancient journey, and the excitement of approaching the Sahara is palpable. Today, Zagora is still a hub for desert excursions, particularly for those not venturing all the way to Mhamid.
We took a leisurely evening walk through the expansive palmeral of Zagora, relishing the tranquility. Our stroll led us to the village of Amazraou, where remnants of a Jewish community and an old synagogue can be found. As we wandered, we became the center of attention for local children who eagerly followed, asking for “Un dirham” or “Un Stylo.” To escape the playful chaos, we retreated to the palms, soaking in the serene atmosphere.
Exploring Tamegroute
The following day, we continued our journey through the remnants of the Valley of Draa, making our way to Mhamid. This leg of the trip spans approximately 100 kilometers, an easily manageable distance that could have been combined into a single travel day.
Our first stop was Tamegroute, renowned for its green pottery and rich history. Here, you can visit local cooperatives that showcase traditional craftsmanship. However, our primary interest lay in the Ancient Library of Tamegroute, which houses approximately 4,000 manuscripts covering a range of subjects from mathematics to medicine, some dating back to 1066 and originating from Córdoba.
Visiting the library requires parking in the designated area, making sure to avoid unofficial parking spots. The library closes between 1 PM and 4 PM, so plan accordingly. Inside, a guide provides insights into the manuscripts, and while tipping is expected, we learned to be prepared for varying expectations.
Encountering the Dunes of Tinfou
As we neared our destination, the Dunes of Tinfou beckoned, easily accessible by car. These small sand dunes offer a glimpse of the Sahara's beauty without the need for a lengthy trek. Before reaching Mhamid, we stopped at roadside stalls near Tagounite, where the best dates in Morocco can be purchased during the harvest season. We picked up a box for just 20 dirhams, a sweet souvenir from our travels.
Reaching Mhamid
Our journey concluded in the village of Mhamid, the gateway to the Erg Chigaga desert. Although the village itself lacks charm, it serves as the perfect base for planning a desert excursion. Here, you’ll find a variety of cafes, restaurants, and a handful of tour agencies offering camel rides and 4x4 adventures.
If you seek a decent meal away from the more touristy spots, consider visiting the Restaurante Maroua, where you can indulge in local cuisine amidst a relaxed atmosphere.
Distance and Route Map Overview
- Day 1: Ait Ben Haddou to Zagora - 225 km
- Day 2: Zagora to Mhamid - 135 km
Where to Stay (Zagora and Mhamid)
In Zagora, we stayed at the Riad Soleil du Monde, nestled in the heart of the palm grove. This charming riad features a handful of cozy rooms and a refreshing pool, providing a perfect retreat. The access road is a bit narrow but manageable with care, and the friendly manager ensures a warm welcome.
In Mhamid, we chose the Riad Les Jardins de Bounou. While it has significant potential, we encountered some issues with maintenance. There are two accommodation options: in the village itself or a few kilometers before in the Bounou area. Another traveler we met in the desert recommended Hotel Kasbah Sahara Services, which offers a pool and a more inviting atmosphere.
This was our road trip through the Valley of Draa, a journey filled with captivating sights from Ait Ben Haddou to Mhamid, weaving through the stunning landscapes of Ouarzazate and Zagora. For more daily adventures in Morocco, follow our Instagram stories.
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