Southwest Australia Road Trip Stage 3 Nullarbor Plain

Embarking on a road trip through the Nullarbor Plain is more than just a journey; it's an adventure that immerses you in the vastness of Australia, where the landscape stretches endlessly, and the sky seems to embrace you. With each mile, you'll create memories that will last a lifetime. Get ready to experience an iconic road trip that encapsulates the spirit of exploration.

In this third stage of our road trip through southwestern Australia, we traverse the Nullarbor, a region that evokes a sense of both trepidation and excitement. Starting from Esperance, we navigate through an arid expanse that offers breathtaking views, quirky roadside attractions, and encounters with unique wildlife. This journey promises not only scenic landscapes but also a glimpse into the stories and histories that punctuate this remote region.

Day 9: Esperance to the Nullarbor

For us, the adventure truly begins on the Eyre Highway. While some may refer to this stretch as “Nullarboring,” we found a captivating beauty in the seemingly empty landscape. The name Nullarbor, derived from Latin meaning "no trees," can be misleading; while vast stretches lack dense vegetation, the journey is peppered with unexpected flora and fauna.

As we set off, we were greeted by a striking contrast in weather. Locals had warned us about the region’s hot climate, but our experience included sudden rain, heat waves, and even a chilly breeze. The temperature fluctuated wildly, peaking at 34ºC, showcasing the unpredictable nature of the Nullarbor.

This region is not just about the road; it’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. The Nullarbor is home to road trains that transport goods across long distances, emus and kangaroos that roam the plains, and even camels and dingoes. Along the route, we encountered several remote towns, often characterized by their roadhouses, which provide essential services such as fuel, food, accommodations, and a cold drink.

We made notable stops along our journey:

Norseman

Norseman is a city steeped in mining history, but for us, it became memorable for a different reason: we savored delicious barbecued steaks in a local park and met a friendly dog with striking yellow eyes. This is where the Nullarbor adventure truly begins, filling us with excitement and a little apprehension.

Fortunately, we completed our journey without incident. For those planning a similar trip, we will share essential tips at the end of the article.

Balladonia

As we continued, we arrived at Balladonia, home to a quirky museum that tells the story of the Skylab, NASA's first space station, which dramatically fell to Earth in 1979. Locals claim that President Carter even called to apologize to the roadhouse owner! Whether true or not, this site captivates visitors with its quirky charm and fascinating history.

After Balladonia, we found a free camping site for the night. It was here we witnessed one of the most mesmerizing sunsets, with the sky ablaze in hues of red, accompanied by a full rainbow—a magical moment indeed.

At the camping site, we met a group of adventurers cycling around Australia, known as The Bikings Project. We wished them luck and safe travels as they continued their extraordinary journey.

Day 10: Crossing the Nullarbor to Eucla

Caiguna

Our next stop was Caiguna, where we initially aimed to see its famous blowhole. However, after reading about a venomous brown snake sighting nearby, we decided to skip it. Instead, we marveled at the start of the Ninety Mile Straight, an astonishingly long stretch of highway that measures nearly 147 km. Despite its monotony, the drive is anything but boring.

At the end of this straight stretch lies the Caiguna Roadhouse, a nostalgic stop reminiscent of Route 66, where we found ourselves drawn to the quirky atmosphere. However, the infamous Pepsi purchase still haunts us, reminding us of how little we appreciate the high prices in these remote areas.

Madura

Continuing our journey, we passed through Madura, where we encountered some intriguing caves. Unfortunately, without a 4WD, venturing off the main road was risky, so we pressed on. However, we were rewarded with stunning scenery as we approached Madura Pass, where the landscape transformed dramatically.

This region is rumored to host wombats, though we only spotted a statue. However, we were delighted by the sight of many kangaroos and emus wandering freely.

Mundrabilla

We were charmed by Mundrabilla and its vintage roadhouse, which felt like stepping back into the 1960s. As we drove through, we encountered whimsical trees adorned with hanging cups, plush toys, and even some unexpected items like bras and underpants—a fun reminder of the quirky nature of road trips.

Eucla

Our next destination was Eucla, where we visited the historic telegraph station that once connected Australia to the rest of the world in 1877. Today, the ruins are slowly being reclaimed by the shifting sands, but they remain a testament to Australia’s rich history. We decided to stay at the Eucla Caravan Park, where we enjoyed the comforts of electric showers and a barbecue, soaking in another stunning Nullarbor sunset.

Day 11: Eucla to Haslam

Border Village

The following morning, we set out to cross the border into South Australia at Border Village. The simplicity of the name belies the excitement of entering a new state. Here, we reminisced about friends who had worked at a local roadhouse, imagining the stories they must have.

Although we had prepared for strict border checks, we breezed through without any inspections, only to face more significant controls later on.

Nullarbor

The drive from Border Village to Nullarbor Roadhouse is one of the most stunning stretches we experienced, featuring the breathtaking Bunda Cliffs, the longest cliffs in the world. The views from several lookout points are spectacular, though we recommend sticking to the marked areas to avoid disappointment.

As we ventured deeper into the Nullarbor, the landscape opened up, revealing vast stretches of barren land with sparse vegetation. It felt like we were at the end of the earth. Upon reaching the Nullarbor Roadhouse, we were captivated by the charming decor and local history, including preserved specimens of local wildlife—most of which were snakes.

It was here that we encountered our first dingo. Its resemblance to a scruffy dog was deceiving, as it is actually a subspecies of wolf. We were both thrilled and cautious, knowing the potential danger they pose.

Yalata

Continuing our journey, we entered Yalata, an area managed by indigenous communities. We learned that venturing off the main road requires permission, which we opted not to pursue due to our vehicle limitations. However, we did visit the Head of Bight, a prime whale-watching location from June to October. The entrance fee to the lookout platform is reasonable, and witnessing these majestic creatures in their natural habitat is an unforgettable experience.

Ceduna

In Ceduna, we finally encountered the long-anticipated border control, but the friendly officer quickly waved us through after a cursory glance at our supplies. It’s essential to remember that fresh fruits and vegetables are prohibited from crossing the border, but cooked items are allowed.

With the option to either camp nearby or head towards our next destination, we chose the latter and made our way to Haslam, where we set up camp for the night.

Before concluding our adventure, here are some essential tips for anyone planning a trip through the Nullarbor:

• Pack sufficient food and drinks: While roadhouses offer supplies, expect to pay a premium. Keep your provisions stocked to avoid unnecessary expenses.
• Monitor fuel levels: Fuel stations are scarce, and prices soar. Use apps like Fuel Map Australia to plan your stops effectively.
• Take your time: The Nullarbor spans over 1,440 km, so plan for at least 2.5 days to cross comfortably without rushing.
• Make frequent stops: Enjoy the scenery and the quirky roadside attractions to enrich your journey.
• Engage with fellow travelers: Wave to truck drivers and fellow nomads; the camaraderie on the road adds to the experience.
• Plan your overnight stays: Consider using apps like Wikicamps to find suitable and free camping spots.
• Be aware of time zone changes: The Nullarbor has three different time zones, so keep your watch adjusted.
• Keep everything charged: Whether it’s your camera or your devices, you’ll want to capture every moment.
• Create the perfect playlist: With limited radio reception, prepare playlists to enhance your driving experience.
• Dress in layers: Expect hot days and cool nights, so pack accordingly.
• Choose your direction wisely: Starting from Perth (west) heading to Melbourne (east) provides optimal sunlight conditions while driving.

Ultimately, the Nullarbor is a mesmerizing place that challenges perceptions of desolation. As the sun sets, the sky transforms into a canvas of colors, and the stars twinkle brightly, reminding us of the beauty and vastness of the universe. This road trip is not just a physical journey but also a journey of the soul, offering moments of reflection and connection with the wild heart of Australia.

The Catlins Near the South Pole

Tuscany Road Trip Stage 3: Val d'Orcia and Maremma Route