Puerto Maldonado: 2-day tour in the Peruvian Amazon

If you're planning to immerse yourself in the wonders of the Amazons of Peru, you might feel overwhelmed by the choices available. Fear not! In this comprehensive guide, we will share insights on how to organize your trip and recount our unforgettable experience during a 2-day tour in the Peruvian Amazon from Puerto Maldonado.

Before embarking on our journey, we were eager to explore the magnificent Amazon jungle (especially after having a taste of its Ecuadorian side), but the question was where to go—Iquitos or Puerto Maldonado? Ultimately, we opted for Puerto Maldonado, and we couldn't be happier with our choice. In this post, we'll delve into our experience, the reasons behind our choice, and the highlights of what to see and do in Puerto Maldonado.

Exploring the Amazon in Peru: Top Destinations

The Amazon region in Peru covers nearly 60% of the country's territory, offering countless entry points into the world's most famous jungle. However, when narrowing it down, the two most popular destinations are Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado.

Choosing between these two can be tricky. Here are the key factors that influenced our decision to pick Puerto Maldonado:

• Accessibility: Iquitos is the largest city in the world not accessible by road, requiring either a flight from Lima, Tarapoto, or Pucallpa. In contrast, Puerto Maldonado can be reached by overnight buses from Cusco in about 10 hours, making it logistically and budget-friendly.
• Wildlife Viewing: Spotting animals can be tricky unless you venture deep into the Amazon on longer tours. However, if you're short on time, the Madre de Dios region, where Puerto Maldonado is located, is renowned as the biodiversity capital of Peru.

While two days in the Amazon is hardly sufficient to experience its full depth, it's a great way to catch glimpses of its wildlife, enjoy thrilling activities, and, yes, brace yourself for the tropical heat and humidity.

During our short visit, we explored the Tambopata National Reserve, an area established in 2000 to protect local flora and fauna, ensuring the preservation of one of Peru’s most spectacular ecosystems. We were pleased to see that the regulations were generally followed.

Tourism is the primary income source here, so many local agencies offer a variety of activities. You can book comprehensive multi-day tours that include accommodations and excursions, or opt for individual activities. In our case, it was more cost-effective to book the complete tour, especially when time was limited.

We took our tour in July 2022 for around €170 per person (approximately). Here’s a breakdown of our 2-day Amazon tour in Peru:

Day 1: Discovering Lake Sandoval

We arrived at the Puerto Maldonado station around 6:30 AM, where our guide was waiting to take us to our accommodation, which would serve as our base for exploring the Amazon.

The lodges are typically situated along one of two main rivers in the reserve: the Tambopata River or the Madre de Dios River. While some accommodations require a boat ride to reach, ours was accessible by road.

After a quick breakfast, we settled in, shedding layers of clothing after coming from over 3,000 meters above sea level. The cabins at Green House were simple but satisfactory; we weren't looking for luxury, just a decent mattress, cold showers, and screens on the windows to keep the bugs out.

At around 9:30 AM, we met our guide, Eddie, and set off on our day's adventure to explore Lake Sandoval. This excursion is one of the most popular activities in Puerto Maldonado, as the lake is teeming with wildlife.

It took us about 45 minutes by speedboat to reach the lake. We cruised along the Tambopata River until it met the Madre de Dios River, where we disembarked. Keep an eye out for sandy banks, as you might spot small white caimans, an appetizer of what’s to come.

Next, we walked a 3 km trail along well-constructed wooden walkways, where Eddie shared fascinating insights about this rich ecosystem. We encountered towering ancient trees, monkeys, tarantulas, and countless bird species.

After an hour of walking, we reached the lake's small dock. Here, we took a wooden canoe (no motors allowed) and paddled through a channel that felt like a scene from a National Geographic documentary until we emerged onto the lake.

We spent the rest of the day navigating the lake, drifting close to the banks whenever something stirred, and dodging roots that reached out into the water. As we laughed and remained quiet whenever Eddie sensed “presences,” we marveled at the wildlife around us.

We spotted black caimans (including one approximately 5 meters long), turtles adorned with butterflies on their heads, capuchin monkeys, bats, herons, and numerous bird species. Although we didn’t see them, this area is home to a colony of giant otters (endangered).

Midway through our lake exploration, we stopped for lunch and a break (in an area with benches, hammocks, and a cantina where drinks can be purchased), followed by a visit to a viewing tower for an aerial view of the lake and the jungle akin to that of monkeys.

Depending on your schedule, you may spend varying amounts of time at Lake Sandoval. We felt a bit overwhelmed by the hours under the heat, but the beauty of the place and the animals we saw made every drop of sweat worthwhile.

Meals were included, but don’t forget to bring LOTS of water. If you forget, you can buy some at the dock or the lunch area. Also, pack sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and something to cover yourself from the sun.

As we returned, we enjoyed a stunning sunset and a delightful dinner. Although we were offered a night walk in the jungle around our lodge, we were too exhausted and just wanted to crash into bed.

Day 2: Parrots Collpa, Canopy Adventure, and Monkey Island

Day two began early: around 5 AM, we quickly sipped some tea and hopped onto the boat! Our goal was to reach one of the local parrots collpas as early as possible. On the way, we were treated to a breathtaking sunrise bursting with shades of pink and red—what a way to wake up!

What are parrots collpas? Parrots and macaws primarily feed on fruits, which can sometimes cause digestive issues if not ripe. To remedy this, they flock to these “collpas,” which are clay walls, to consume earth (geophagy) that provides essential minerals for digestion. The spectacle is captivating, with hundreds of parrots and macaws flying, feeding, and squawking (so noisy!) before your eyes.

There are two collpas near Puerto Maldonado: the Cachuela Collpa, known for green parrots, and the Chuncho Collpa, famous for colorful macaws, which is farther away and incurs an extra cost. Previously, the Colorado Collpa was also visited, but we heard the macaws no longer visit there.

We headed to the Cachuela Collpa (about an hour by boat). While this site is primarily visited by green parrots and lacks the vibrant colors of macaws, it was a fascinating visit nonetheless. Before booking, ask if the tour includes binoculars, as it’s prohibited for boats and people to approach too closely.

After returning to the lodge for breakfast, we headed to the next stop: the Canopy of Inkatierra, one of the most prestigious companies in the region. We were lucky, as it’s usually reserved for their resort guests and rarely collaborates with local operators. However, Charlie, the person we booked with, had connections.

We expected a mini canopy experience at a lower height, something to fill our morning, but it turned out to be a thrilling adventure! The setup features suspension bridges and various platforms that left us breathless. We even had to climb a tower that felt like it would never end, reaching about 30 meters above ground. From up there, surrounded by tree canopies, it felt like we were floating among the clouds.

Our final stop of the morning was a stroll through the Monkey Island, one of the most famous attractions in Puerto Maldonado. This site is home to around 35 monkeys (of various species) that were rescued from the illegal exotic animal trade and reintroduced into the wild. We were fortunate enough to spot three curious monkeys. However, it’s worth noting that guides often feed them bananas to attract them, resulting in their strong habituation to humans.

To reach the island, we first parked the boat on the river bank and trekked through muddy terrain (make sure to wear sturdy shoes and watch your step), followed by a short 20-minute walk on the island.

As you can see, it was a bustling morning. On the way back to our lodge, we spotted several white caimans along the riverbanks and attempted to spot a sloth in their usual habitats, but unfortunately, we had no luck. We also heard that capybaras, the world's largest rodents, inhabit the area, but we missed seeing them too.

After enjoying lunch at the lodge, we spent the afternoon relaxing on lounge chairs by the water. Although we were offered a kayaking trip, we decided to play it safe and not tempt fate after such a successful day. Back in Puerto Maldonado, we capped off our Amazon adventure with a delicious chocolate cake at the Cacao Center.

Next, we had another overnight bus ride to Puno, marking the end of our journey through Peru.

Tour Summary

Here’s a quick overview of our itinerary:

• Day 1: Arrival around 6:30 AM in Puerto Maldonado via overnight bus from Cusco. Accommodation check-in and full-day visit to Lake Sandoval. Option for a night walk. Meals included.
• Day 2: Early morning trip to the parrots collpa. Return for breakfast, followed by visits to Monkey Island and Canopy of Inkaterra. Lunch at the lodge and relaxation by the river until departure for the overnight bus to Puno.

How to Book a Tour in the Amazon of Peru

Before our trip, we contacted the agency Green House Tambopata. After a bit of back-and-forth (sorry, Charlie!), we finalized a 2-day, 1-night tour that included everything—entrances, activities, accommodation, transportation, and meals. Charlie knows the area like the back of his hand, and our guide Eddie was knowledgeable and friendly, making for a fantastic experience.

This tour cost around €170 per person. We stayed at the Green House (included in the price), offering basic yet comfortable cabins by the river. The meals were included, and everything was delicious.

For multi-day tours or individual excursions, you can also book online through Civitatis. Check out their offerings here.

Visiting Puerto Maldonado Independently

Of course, you can opt to explore the Amazon independently, but this is only recommended for those with ample time and a flexible itinerary. You can arrive in Puerto Maldonado and stay one or two nights (with a range of accommodations available) while exploring local agencies and comparing activities.

This approach is quite common, and if you can join others in tours, it can be cheaper than private ones. Plus, enjoying the dolce far niente of the jungle from a riverbank accommodation, sipping a cold drink while watching the sunrise or sunset, is one of life’s greatest pleasures.

Accommodation Options

If you plan to explore independently or stay several days to book excursions from a single location, here are some fantastic accommodation options for an authentic Amazon experience:

• Inkaterra: The most exclusive hotel in the Amazon Reserve promotes sustainability and has environmental protection programs. A few years ago, it was recognized by National Geographic as one of the best eco-lodges in the world. If your budget allows, consider this.
• Hotel Enai: Located by the Madre de Dios River, this hotel offers great comforts (including a pool) in the middle of the jungle at a very reasonable price.
• Passiflora Camp: A simpler wooden cabin accommodation with excellent value and positive reviews.

Must-See Attractions and Activities in Puerto Maldonado

Here’s a list of the essential places to experience during your excursion to the Peruvian Amazon in Puerto Maldonado:

• Lake Sandoval (jungle hike and wooden boat ride)
• Parrots Collpa (either the nearby Cachuela or the farther Chuncho)
• Canopy at the Inkaterra resort
• Monkey Island
• Nocturnal jungle hikes (usually around the lodge)
• Kayaking on the river (either guided or independently)
• Savoring coffee and cake at “La Semilla” or “Cacao Center” in Puerto Maldonado

We hope our experience and tips inspire you to explore the Peruvian Amazon from Puerto Maldonado. Do you have any additional recommendations for things to see and do in Puerto Maldonado?

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